_ in san diego for the day, we had to go visit some surf spots, so we went out to san onofre beach, the self-proclaimed home of longboarding. the sign above was spraypainted to the backside of a lifeguard station.
_ though it wasn't exactly the best surf day ever, we got to check out a few people hitting the waves, and scratched that itch a bit.
_ it was overcast and misty, but we couldn't think of anything we wanted to do more than throw ourselves around the pacific for a few hours.
_ ...and plenty of other people had the same thought.
_ this guy was our favorite. looking the part, hanging on the dunes watching the waves, very very very stoned.
_ we settled on old man beach, but just north, up the coast, were the trestles, (allegedly) the best surf spot in southern california. we were tired, of course, so we didn't hike up.
_ the weather was a welcome respite from all the straight-on heat we'd seen in the last few states.
_ tim here has been surfing here for nearly two decades, and felt bad that we couldn't see it on a much better day.
_ there were people who had just arrived to spectate. they parked their cars along the water and set up coolers and fold-out chairs.
_ others were jumping in and out of the waves.
_ harry was spending a few days at a campsite just up the road, coming down to san onofre to surf all day with a couple of friends.
_ as we were about to leave, billy and his sons invited us to have a pre-noon beer. we couldn't refuse.
_ there was much quiet reflection and staring out at the ocean, just as sailors do, in dramatic novels about the sea.
{ 2 comments… read them below or add one }
How cool! I’m going to buy a backpack!
Did you see any sharks? I want to see photos of sharks and I know they tend to hang out in San O!